CLEVELAND, Ohio -- Worms have traditionally been viewed as a gardener's best friend. This is because they are important decomposers that help return organic matter and nutrients to the soil and increase their availability to plants through aeration. Since high-quality soil is the basis for any good garden (or forest or field), the efforts of worms have long been appreciated by gardeners.

Despite the benefits of worms, they have also long suffered from an image problem. Some 250 years ago, the English naturalist Gilbert Wright said: "Earthworms, though in appearance a small and despicable link in the chain of nature, if lost, would make a lamentable chasm."

Recently, worms have become even less popular in Northeast Ohio because they aren't "supposed" to be here.

During the last Ice Age, glaciers scraped off the topsoil in many parts of North America, and with the topsoil, went our native worms. When the glaciers retreated some 12,000 years ago, our local forests developed in a wormless ecosystem.

What is a wormless forest like? Leaves decompose more slowly, creating a thick spongy layer known as "duff", a natural environment for native woodland wildflowers, ferns, insects in various stages of development, and other animals.

Why do we now see worms in our yards? Because settlers brought European species to North America centuries ago to improve their gardens. Species of Asian worms arrived more recently (and stealthfully), hidden in soils. Several dozen species of non-native worms now call the US home. The most infamous of these is the Asian jumping worm, which breaks down leaves and other materials so quickly that it is a threat to our local ecosystems. Large trees can withstand this process, but many young seedlings perish, along with ferns and wildflowers.

Fortunately, the power of non-native worms can be harnessed for good through vermicomposting: marshalling worms to eat your scraps and produce castings (poop). Worm castings are rich in nutrients, making them an excellent addition to your garden or houseplants. If you live in an apartment or don't want to put food scraps in an outdoor compost bin, vermicomposting is a great alternative to regular composting. If your worm bin is inside, you can easily add table scraps all year long, and you don't have to worry about raccoons getting into it. (You can keep it outside, but you shouldn't let it freeze.)

Vermicomposting relies on a particular species whose scientific name is Eisenia fetida. These small worms are often called red wigglers. Unlike typical garden worms, these worms thrive in warm temperatures, live in decaying organic matter (rather than soil), and feed on the surface - a perfect combination for home composting.

The first step in vermicomposting is making or purchasing a bin. There are pros and cons to different types and materials. A relatively inexpensive bin can be made from five-gallon buckets with holes drilled in the bottom, but there are many do-it-yourself designs. Bins with multiple levels work best because the worms will keep moving upwards as food is added. That leaves the castings below, which makes it easy to harvest them. Commercial bins with a series of stacking trays work well. They include a spigot for draining off the "compost tea," which can be used for indoor or outdoor plants.

For bedding, you should use shredded (or crosscut) paper or cardboard. Avoid glossy paper, cardboard with shiny printing on it like cereal boxes (stick to brown cardboard), and anything with tape or plastic windows. The bedding should be damp but not wet, about as moist as a wrung-out sponge.

Once you have your bin and bedding, you should add a pound of worms, which can be purchased online. You can then start to add chopped food scraps, covering them with a bit of bedding as you add them. Some suitable foods include vegetables, fruits, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags (remove the staple!), and crushed eggshells. You should avoid fats, dairy products, meats, breads, and pet waste. The smaller you chop the scraps, the faster they will break down. If you keep a small covered "compost pail" in the kitchen, you can fill that and periodically empty it into your worm bin to cut down on the number of trips. The ideal temperature for vermicomposting is 55-75 degrees, typically household temperatures.

If you are vermicomposting correctly, your bin shouldn't smell bad. Foul odors are usually a sign of too much moisture, too many scraps, or adding items that should be avoided. Fruit flies or gnats can sometimes be a problem. Freezing banana peels and covering scraps when you add them can help.

Worms that are properly cared for will continue to reproduce, which means you shouldn't have to purchase more worms. In fact, if your vermicomposter is doing well, you can give a handful of worms to a friend so they can start their own bin. Perhaps you should consider a vermicomposter for a friend this holiday season? Worms are a gift that keeps on giving!